110708-10 Paya, Soyak and Renggis, Tioman

Had my PADI open water (Sunnycove package) at Paya beach for first 3 dives, Soyak 4th and Renggis 5th dive. For the first 3 dives, the main focus of my attention was the sandy bottom and rocky areas covered with many long spined Diadema urchins. Soyak and Renggis was a pretty good start to the wonderful sight of undisturbed coral reefs in clear water.

We had Bob and Gary for our instructors who were pretty good. The lessons went smoothly, in a professional and patient way and they did a good job in keeping us safe.



Rustic accommodation, but clean and comfortable, with hot water and air-con. Each hut was 2 adjoining quad-share rooms with one outside tap for washing gear each.


I believe they burn their rubbish.


Quaint place.


This man has a style all his own. The waiter called him Raj.



Paya beach is such an idyllic place, and the thought of all the wonderful reefs out there...


People get about on these scooters with sidecars, small enough to squeeze on the paths yet capable of transporting heavy cargo.


First time seeing a stalk-eyed fly, and me without my macro rig, sigh.



Boatride to Soyak and Renggis.


Soyak. I like this dive site. Coral here were primarily various species of Acropora. Phyllid nudibranchs were quite common, especially Phyllidia elegans. First time seeing the gobies on the sea whips too.


Renggis. This dive site was also not bad, though it seemed plainer than Renggis.

Overall, large Acropora colonies were regularly seen, numerous giant clams populate the seabed and echinoderms were everywhere, cushion stars on sand and rocky outcrops and sea cucumbers dot the sand along with the Diadema urchins. There were beds of sea whips, numerous Heteractis magnifica, all with anemonefish (at least 4 different species, some with the black damselfish) and many crinoids poke their feather arms out among the coral. The visibility was about 10 m.

Food-wise, breakfast was barely passable. Wait for the man to come to fry the eggs on the spot for you, as that is probably the most edible thing for breakfast. Lunch was ok, fried rice, sweet and sour fish, spaghetti with tomato-based sauce, that sort of thing. Dinner was awesome BBQ buffet, the lamb was excellent. Liquor is duty-free on Tioman and the ice cream is cheap.

Travelling there and back was the worst part. Almost 3 hours by very cramp minibus from customs to Mersing jetty (with only one stop about 30 min into the journey), and another 2+ hour ferry ride to Tioman. Bus back was better as we took a large coach. It was mostly army style rushing to wait.


Mersing jetty.


The ferry, with freezing air con. If not intending to sleep, best to secure a seat at the smoking area out the back of the ferry.